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An authentic sailing
14 October 1990.
After three days on the lake we engage a pedicab to go to the Grand
Canal from where we’ll go to Suzhou (200km.). Comfortably sitting behind
the driver I feel compassion seeing him to pedal so hardly and we decide to pay more than the price is. Surprised, we can’t
believe hearing: “Change the money?" showing a bundle of yuan! Till now we changed dollars on the
street, in boutiques .... because they ask for everywhere we go on. So we get "Renminbi" = “People’s Money”.
It’s very profitable for our daily expenses. Hotels and trains we have to pay in FEC (Foreign Exchange Certificates)
we get in banks or exchange offices.
At midday we arrive at the Grand Canal, construction
as imposing as the Great Wall. In 604 AD they started to build it and since 1300 it has its actual aspect connecting
Peking to Hangzhou (1.800 km.) its Southern end. The environment is far to be idyllic. A total contrast with the luminosity
of the lake we just left. The atmosphere associates the districts and their populace described by Ch. Dickens. I feel to be
back in the time of Emperor Qianghong when horses walking on the strike drew the boats. Nothing seems to be changed except
the engines replace the animals. Our cabin without comfort and hygiene make the scene absolutely authentic!
The leaving evolution is extremely complicated because the narrowness of the channel.
Our ship tows four others. The convoy transports travelers of any conditions but the majority with enormous baskets full of
vegetables is on their way to the markets. The traffic on the channel is captivating. I look fascinated at the continuous
stir of the barges charged with cool, bricks, stones, bars of iron. They compete with immense rafts charged with bamboos.
Traffic functions surprising well even at the narrowest
places. Our convoy is very length what limits its fleetness. Moreover, the barges slip swiftly; some outrun us. It's like
invisible semaphores lights to regulate the traffic. I can see on the barges passing near me, a family life – parents,
children and a dog. On one end the man hold the helm, on the other end the woman commands. With a long bamboos stem she vigorously
pushes against obstacles to avoid a collision. Extraordinary is the dexterity of the pilots when they arrive at “crossroads”
where the rhythm doesn’t slacken, quite the contrary, sometimes stimulated by outcries to avoid the worst. A whole system
supplies the Grand Canal. Those numerous
crossroads are the places where lateral channels are drown in ours.
It’s getting dark. A dense fog covers the surroundings.
The traffic continues. Very exciting is this experience when the deep sound of our convoy’s siren resounds in the night.
Then our captain launches, using a microphone, messages which reflect far on the channel I suppose to prevent the others of
the importance of his convoy. Now we progress very slowly. Over there, in the obscurity, I hear other sirens announcing their
presence too. I would like to stay in this phantomic environment but I must rest.
At midnight a shake and noises of broken panes wake us. I hurry to see what happens;
an enormous “construction” grazes our ship. Thank Goodness, nothing serious; only some broken panes "downstairs".
I return to bed hoping to arrive safe and sound in order to conquest Suzhou.
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