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19 –
24 October 1990
Sitting in a comfortable ventilated fast train, we travel to Shanghai, 80 km west of
Suzhou. No doubt we approach a high economic and cultural city regarding the look of the travelers. Arrived in the most populated
town of China, thirteen million of inhabitants, we examine our map in order to locate “Pujiang Hotel” LP proposed.
At once a certain Mr. Huang offers to show the way. This cordial gesture is welcome because we feared to face this gigantic
unknown city.
Got rid of our bags, we hurry to Peace Hotel where
we hope to find a counter (so says LP) where are held incoming letters addressed c/o Peace Hotel. Indeed! Here we get news
from home the first time since we are in China. We feel quite well now and gaily go to the Bund, an Anglo-Indian term meaning
the quay. We are on the bank of the Huang Pu River where still now exist the towers, symbol of the foreign concessions.
In 1843 an English consul settled in Shanghai. He
was the first white who penetrated into that city. He made of it the center of opium production. Then Shanghai became the
center of manufacturers and financiers.
I don’t like the Bund because its Western look,
so we enter Nanjing lu (Nanjing street), the broadest and longest (5km) in the town. Standing on one of the numerous footbridges
fascinating is the look of the crowd as far as we can see. From here, Shanghai seems really to be the densest place in the
country. Daily an average of a million people move through this street they say. A very lively atmosphere here on the pavement
where settled different trade companies. Interesting is the animation around the benches where are working carpenters, shoemakers,
tailors, clockmakers, hairdressers, barbers, grinders….There is also a medical service. Here we control our arterial
tension. Impossible to make out the results however the smiling faces seem to say we are fit to continue our voyage.
On Nanjing lu everything can be found. Here we do our first shopping: blouses – shirts
– pyjamas in pure silk at incredibly low prices. It’s not easy to communicate but we are served with the same
spontaneous kindness like so far.
The old city
During the next days we go discovering the old traditional city early in the morning. In this district we can
notice the evidence of the extremely density still more than on Nanjing lu. In very narrow lanes, just enough space to go
side-by-side, style of life is especially attractive. I feel a little indiscreet passing near people brushing their teeth,
washing their hair (on the street) though they don’t mind it seems. I remember the toilets exempt of partitions on the
road to Huangshan; so it’s obvious they don’t have the problem of promiscuity. I would like to know is it the
result of the narrowness of the habitats or the mentality of this people. To difficult question for Westerns! On the pavement
stoves smoke, washing machines work, women prepare vegetables merchants bring in baskets on their shoulders. Now we walk under
wash hanging between wooden houses. Around us only ease and smiling faces. Being back home I’m sure I’ll think about
our way of living and exigencies to feel happy.
Yu Yuan, a charming
garden created for Mandarin Yu five centuries ago. Crossing a zigzag bridge we enter a pavilion adapted into a cha-dian (tea
house). The enigma of the zigzag bridges is finally solved: the devil going exclusively straight cannot cross it.
On the floor a typical ambient. Around little tables
relaxed and discrete young people enjoy their tea in the usual miniature cups. We enjoy the pleasant place and jasmine tea.
Like in Chengdu, a hostess walk around with hot water filling the empty cups. The scenery harmonizes with traditional
ancient melodies three old Chinese are playing on strange string instruments. Unforgettable moments!
Here on the street we join an interested group looking
at the players of xiangqi; it’s a sort of chess where tanks, horses, guns, solders and generals are confronted. The
actors sitting on low little stools are absolutely concentrated ignoring the spectators.
The last days
On the
Bund, early in the morning, the spectacle of Chinese (the most old ones) practicing the tai-chi is of a striking beauty. A
spectator tells us the tai-chi consists in connecting one’s breath to the breath of the Universe and takes care of the
body via the spirit. The connected movements aim at a control of energy in oneself.
In Shanghai we taste the best raviolis whose varieties are numerous. Fried noodles and steamed
rolls are my favorites too. The prices are unmeaning, that’s why the popular restaurants are always crowded.
Our last day fly away floating on the Huangpu River to the mouth of Yangtze River. We paid the excursion six yuan.
The travel agency required twenty of them!
The sun is shining above Shanghai like everywhere
we have been except a rainy day in Xian and another one in Chongqing. Leaving the port, from the upper deck we discover a
remarkable view of the Bund. The port being one of the largest in the world, impressive are the images of transoceanic ships,
giant cranes, forklifts etc. On the junction with the Yangtze River I have the opportunity to say an ultimate adieu…..
In the evening we take the train to Peking.
Comment jeanette@sbb.co.yu
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